Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Why this Bavarian ski destination is worth visiting, even if you don’t hit the slopes

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I had never heard of Garmisch-Partenkirchen until I came across it on Trusted Housesitters. A photo of the host’s garden framed by mountains lured me, and the scenery lived up to the hype. A small town about an hour south of Munich near the Austrian border, Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a popular spot for skiers taking on Mount Zugspitze (Germany’s highest mountain), the starting point for hiking trails, and a base for day trips to some of Germany’s most breath-taking scenic points. The town itself is quaint and picturesque. If you’re looking for traditional Bavarian culture, you’re in the right place

Mountain backdrop throughout the town
Unusually it snowed in April

Top three sights to see in Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Mount Zugspitze

Mount Zugspitze is the highest mountain in Germany and is an impressive backdrop to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. At the foot is Lake Eibsee, and a day trip to see both sites is a must. To get there, head to Garmisch-Partenkirchen train station; directly behind is a separate railway that takes you up the mountain. The ticket, which you can buy from the station, includes a cable car ride. The cost is €57 in the winter season and €68 in summer, but the experience is worth it, and between the mountain and the lake, you will want to spend a whole day in this idyllic setting.

The view from the ski area

The picturesque train ride takes you through the countryside and stops at several rural stations, including Eibsee. Once here, I chose to stay on the train, but you can get off and explore the lake, then take the cable car to the top of the mountain. The train climbs higher through pine forests and drops you at the ski point for beautiful mountain views. Then take the stairs or a lift to the summit and the panoramic viewing platform.

 

The weather was not great while I was in Garmisch. Even though I went on the only sunny day, thick clouds were abundant at the summit. Annoyingly, you won’t see much unless it is a clear day. I was disappointed not to get the summit views, but to be immersed in the clouds was an incredible experience. Once on the viewing platform, you can follow a separate exit to the Austrian side. Make sure you go down the mountain on the side you came up!

Zugspitze has live webcams that show visibility from different viewpoints on the mountain, so you can check before you visit.

Summit viewing platform
Cloudy but still incredible
Take the cable car down to the lake

Head back downstairs, and there is a restaurant to grab a bite to eat (not cheap though, I packed a lunch), and then you can take the cable car down to the lake. Beneath the clouds, the view is spectacular and it feels as if you’re emerging from inside Zugspitze itself. On the other side, the snow-covered forest and a birds-eye view of the beautiful green-blue Lake Eibsee, backed by the mountain range. The ride takes around 15 minutes and drops you right by the lake and Eibsee train station. Be advised, you can only ride the cable car once, either up or down, but the ticket includes the return train journey to Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

View from the cable car of Lake Eibsee
View from the cable car of Mount Zugspitze
Lake Eibsee

Laid out at the foot of Mount Zugspitze, Lake Eibsee is one of the most beautiful sites I’ve seen. I had to remind myself I was in Germany, not New Zealand or Canada. The glass surface shimmers in deep green and turquoise hues. In summer, you can swim, and there is even a separate smaller bathing pool with clear emerald water. A walking trail loops around the lake, and through the forest, offering many access points to the lake and mountain viewpoints. You can also walk directly around the lakebed to ensure you don’t miss any photo opportunities. The circuit took me just over two hours, with a picnic stop (and endless photo stops). There are a few inclines but it’s an easy track. I only wish I had visited in summer; as well as swimming, you can kayak or paddleboard on the lake.

Partnachklamm

This impressive gorge is a stunning sight and a must-see in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The caved-out cliff path meanders with the river deep into the canyon. Alternating between narrow tunnels and rocky platforms that pass under waterfalls – prepare to get wet! It was snowing the day I visited (an abnormality for April), and the snow feeding into the cascading river, surrounded by the looming sheer rock face, heightened the surreal experience. The gorge is reached on foot from the Olympic Stadium in Garmisch and is a 20-minute walk to the entrance. I walked from town, which was about 40 minutes and especially beautiful in the snow.

Once you are through the gorge, you can continue walking or go back the way you came. Cafes/ restaurants are available on either side. I had a coffee at Klammhaus an der Partnach to warm up (they serve full meals all day too). There is also the option to visit the Iron Bridge, which begins at a separate trail at the start of the gorge, but unfortunately, this was closed for maintenance when I visited. The gorge is closed over winter and can close at short notice in adverse weather conditions. I was lucky to experience it in the snow! Tickets are €7.50 and can be bought online or at the ticket desk before the entrance.

Outdoor activities

Hiking

Hiking season in Garmisch-Partenkirchen typically runs from June – September, but some trails are open year-round. If you’re visiting in the off-peak season, pack waterproof clothing! I overcame my fear of solo hiking (too many true crime shows) and hiked Königsstand, behind where I was staying. I aimed for the viewpoint, but part of the trail is only open in the summer. It was raining and sleeting, and the steep path was turning into a mudslide so I could see why. Instead, I carried on the track around the mountain which was easily accessible in all weathers. There are various trails around Königsstand with varying levels of difficulty.

View from Königsstand trail
Waterfalls flowed from the mountain
White water rafting

For the water lovers and thrill seekers: a professionally guided rafting tour of the Isar River. From a starting point in the nearby town of Lenggries (easily accessible from Garmisch by car), you will learn to navigate the 12km route from Lenggries to Bad Tölz. Paddle the rapids, enjoy the scenery, and end the day with a hard-earned stein in a beer garden. Prices start from €57.

Eat, drink, stay

You must try traditional Bavarian cuisine and of course, Bavarian beers when in Garmisch. Restaurants and beer gardens in beautifully painted buildings jump straight from the pages of a fairy tale. I went for dinner on a Sunday, which is typically quieter, and some places are closed, but I got a table at Fischer’s Mohrenplatz. They offer a few vegetarian options and had a relaxed, warm atmosphere. I opted for spinach dumplings, served with melted butter and parmesan, and a side salad with a cream dressing, washed down with a mug of beer. So good but ridiculously rich.

 

I found my accommodation for free through Trusted Housesitters (read more on that here). But there are many hotels in town, a few for under €100 /night. There is a youth hostel averaging €27 /night, with an 8.9 rating on Hostelworld.

Bavarian buildings
Fischer's Mohrenplatz

How much I spent in five days in Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Accommodation – FREE through house-sitting (read more about how to get free accommodation in this post)


1/5 of interrail pass – €44.60


Groceries – €29.88

 

Eating/ drinking out – €32.80


Activities – €64.50


TOTAL – €171.78

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