Luxembourg: you’ve likely heard of it but may not be able to place it on a map. Often overlooked due to its size, this compact country has plenty to offer and makes a great travel stop or city break. In this post, I am focusing on Luxembourg, the capital city of the same name, but please also check out my post on Must-see day trips from Luxembourg City.
A brief overview of Luxembourg
Luxembourg has been rated the richest country in the world by Forbes in 2022 and is a hub for private banking. Accommodation and eating out can be expensive, but it’s the only country in the world to provide free public transport, and many activities are free, so it’s a solid option for budget travel. Luxembourg is extremely diverse, nearly half the population is foreign and most residents speak at least four languages (English included). People are generally friendly; I felt safe as a solo female traveller, and it is an LGBTQ+ friendly country (although sadly, many of the city’s gay bars have closed down).
Things to do in Luxembourg
City walking tour
The best way to fully experience the city is through a walking tour. Not only do you see all the main attractions (without getting lost), you get local recommendations from your friendly tour guide. At around two hours, the tour allows enough time to sight-see and expand your Luxembourg knowledge without getting tiring. The tour covers Place d’Armes, William Square, Place Clairefontaine, Grand Ducal Palace, Le Chemin de la Corniche. Holy Ghost Citadel, Place de la Constitution, and Pont Adolphe. There is also a wine-tasting tour option for a well-deserved break after all that walking.
Explore Grund
My favourite place in Luxembourg City was Grund, one of the oldest quarters. This picture-perfect neighbourhood lies deep in a valley, overlooked by Le Chemin de la Corniche. I took the bus as I was coming from Bridel (although it’s easily walkable from Luxembourg centre), and got off on the wrong side of the valley, so I followed a staircase down, past houses cut into the cliff to join the river at the bottom. The walk along the river path leads to Stierchen Bridge, which you can cross and ascend spiral staircases in turrets on either side, then follows the river through the district. Grund also has brilliant nightlife; bars are vibrant, friendly, and open late.
Le Chemin de la Corniche
From Grund valley, you can climb the slope by Wenzel Wall, once part of the city’s defence ring, towards Le Chemin de la Corniche. So-called ‘the most beautiful balcony in Europe’, La Corniche is a must-see in Luxembourg and provides panoramic views of Neumünster Abbey, The River Alzette, and Wenzel Wall. The 600m promenade follows the 17th-century city ramparts and puts Grund into a toy-town perspective for visitors.
Casemates du Bock
Located on the Grund border, the UNESCO world heritage site is an underground labyrinth of tunnels coursing under the city. Unfortunately, I couldn’t visit as the site is closed for annual maintenance. Ticket prices aren’t currently listed, but I believe they’re around €8-€10, and it reopens in summer 2023.
Pfaffenthal Panoramic Elevator
This striking structure consists of a suspended tunnel walkway, an observation deck with a glass floor, and a glass elevator that connects the city centre to the Alzette Valley. Rides in the elevator are free, although it can get busy. I visited once to take photos and a second time via my route home, and there was a queue down the road, which must get tiresome for local commuters!
Pont Adolphe
This impressive bridge in the city centre is a popular photo spot and the main image you’ll see on postcards around the city. The double-decked stone arches frame the treetops of the Pétrusse Valley below, and there is also a skate park in the valley which you can observe from above.
Galleries and Museums
Mudam
Art galleries are high on my list in any city, and Luxembourg has a variety, many of which are free. Grand Duke Jean Museum of Modern Art (Mudam) is set over three levels in a world-renowned architect-designed building. The beautiful glass vaulted ceilings, stone columns, and spiral staircases are aesthetically mesmerising, and a glass tunnel offers panoramic views of Park Dräi Eechelen. As well as the collections, the museum showcased five exhibitions; I particularly enjoyed Pleasure and Pollinator by artist and trans activist Tourmaline, a mixed-media self-portrayal, alongside footage of Stonewall activist Marsha P. Johnson’s memorial. Tickets are €8, and there is a cute cafe, that serves vegan food and drinks.
Dräi Eechelen Museum
Directly behind Mudam is Dräi Eechelen Museum, located inside Fort Thüngen. This small museum tells Luxembourg’s history and houses ancient artifacts. You can explore the tunnel under the museum and climb to the top for viewpoints of Mudam and Park Dräi Eechelen, a peaceful park overlooking the city walls.
Casino
Housed in another beautiful building in the city centre is Casino, a contemporary art gallery with a library and bookshop. Three mixed-media exhibits were shown, including virtual reality immersion experiences. Entrance to Casino is free, and you can enjoy views of Adolphe Bridge and Gelle Fra monument without battling the crowds.
Am Tunnel
This contemporary gallery is hidden underground in a tunnel that once connected Spuerkeess banks. When I finally found the entrance, it was closed (Easter weekend), but I thought it was worth a mention as a unique space that exhibits internationally renowned artists. I would definitely visit Am Tunnel if in Luxembourg again.
Eat and drink
As you’d expect from a culturally diverse country, the food in Luxembourg is varied, and you can get any cuisine you fancy. For authentic Luxembourg food, try Café-Restaurant Um Dierfgen, where you can sample the traditional Judd Mat Gaardebounen (smoked pork neck and beans) amongst other dishes. Luxembourg cuisine is heavy on meat and potatoes, although a couple of vegetarian options are generally offered. Finding budget-friendly meals in Luxembourg can be challenging. I had sushi and a beer for under €20 at Kudasai; good vegetarian and vegan options and an all-you-can-eat sushi train.
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There are many cafes and bars throughout Luxembourg. Beer and wine are fairly cheap, but spirits are expensive. Grund is a beautiful spot for a drink after a day of exploring, be sure to check out Scott’s Pub for its riverside terrace and late-night DJs. In the city centre, Vis-a-Vis is a cosy corner bar with outdoor tables and a Parisian feel. A good spot for Luxembourg beer and people-watching. Ultimately a locals bar, but I didn’t feel uncomfortable solo, and the bar staff were friendly.
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A must-try is Crémant, a sparkling wine made with the same technique as Champagne but from the Luxembourg Moselle wine district. Luckily, unlike Champagne, Crémant has a budget-friendly price point and can be bought by the glass in bars or for around €8 in supermarkets.
How much I spent in one week in Luxembourg
(Including a day trip to Vianden, which you can read about here)
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Accommodation: FREE! Through house-sitting, read this post to find out how
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Transport: FREE. All public transport across the country is free in Luxembourg
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Eating/ drinking out: €53.89
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Groceries – €56.92
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Activities – €24.50
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TOTAL: €135.31
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I still can’t believe how cheap the week was! Free public transport made a huge difference, as I was on a bus or train at least twice daily. I cooked the majority of meals at my house-sit, and many activities in Luxembourg are free or budget-friendly.